Tide's End Farm

By Sacha Pfeiffer

Boston Globe Staff / September 12, 2007

A three-hour drive north of Boston, this ruggedly beautiful peninsula island is one of the scores of thin fingers of land that jut into the Atlantic off Maine. Accessible by bridge, it is encircled by the Kennebec, Back, Sasanoa, and Sheepscot rivers, whose waters draw osprey, bald eagles, piping plovers, least terns, egrets, and seals. Georgetown is largely undeveloped, save for working harbors, a few small businesses, and mostly modest homes that often have been in the same families for generations. The setting is serene, the pace of life gentle, the attractions more natural than man-made. This is a place where outdoor beauty is not simply appreciated, but savored. No wonder Georgetown, with its smattering of inns, restaurants, and boat tours, has become a quiet haven for visitors lured by its pristine shores, sheltered coves, and forested coastline.

Do

A visit to Georgetown centers around nature, including one of Maine's great outdoor treasures: Reid State Park (375 Seguinland Road, 207-371-2303), 766 acres of oceanfront land given to the state in the 1940s by Walter E. Reid, a prosperous businessman. This gorgeous gift includes sand beaches, dunes, rock ledges, woodlands, salt marshes, a tidal estuary, and a lagoon, which doubles as a kiddie pool. There's rich birdlife, too, and a rocky headland called Griffith Head that overlooks the seascape, offering glimpses of several lighthouses. Open year-round, the park has two beach houses, snack bars, picnic tables, outdoor grills, and a covered pavilion.

Another local gem is the Josephine Newman Wildlife Sanctuary (Route 127 south), a 119-acre preserve of shoreline and woods operated by the Maine Audubon Society. It offers fine birding, pretty views, and 2 1/2 miles of hiking trails through marsh, meadow, and forest. Sanctuary guides can be obtained from the Maine Audubon Society or Georgetown Historical Society.

For a look at working harbors, visit Robinhood Cove, home to the Robinhood Marine Center (340 Robinhood Road, 207-371-2525), a yacht yard that builds and repairs boats, or Five Islands, where lobster boats and fishermen unload their catches.

In business since 1972, Georgetown Pottery (755 Five Islands Road, 207-371-2801, georgetownpottery.com) sells handcrafted, hand-painted porcelain ceramics - plateware, clocks, pitchers, vases, birdbaths, dog bowls, even custom sinks - featuring Maine and nautical themes.

Five Islands Farm (1375 Five Islands Road, 207-371-9383, fiveislandsfarm.com) is a charming indoor-outdoor farm stand selling fresh produce, plants, flowers, specialty foods, wines, cheeses, and Maine-raised meats and eggs, as well as gardening supplies and some works by local artists.

You can also put your money to good use by supporting the Georgetown Historical Society (20 Bay Point Road, 207-371-9200, georgetownhistoricalsociety.org) as it continues fund-raising for its new headquarters. Called the Georgetown Historical and Cultural Center, the striking building, which has vaulted ceilings and wide rear windows overlooking woods, was built with lots of volunteer help and numerous donated materials. It has a research library, an auditorium, a small kitchen, and handicap restrooms - a big improvement from its decrepit predecessor.

Party

There's little night life to speak of in Georgetown, other than whatever merriness is happening at the Tavern at Riggs Cove, a casual drinking spot at the Osprey Restaurant (340 Robinhood Road, 207-371-2530).

A different way to celebrate: A scenic boat ride, which provides a view of Georgetown's coastline that can't be fully appreciated from the shore. Among the companies available to take you onto the water are Son Rae Charters (207-371-2813, sonrae.com), which offers 90-minute excursions on a Maine-built "lobstah" boat; Maine Island Touring Co. (805 Five Islands Road, 207-371-9930, islandtouring.com), whose tidewater tours explore habitats for bald eagles, osprey, and seals; and Mid-Maine Water Taxi (207-371-2288 or 207-837-2449, hometown.aol.com/clemhand), which gives customized cruises aboard the Sea Wife, a 26-foot cruiser.

Fuel

The most popular eating spot in town is surely Five Islands Lobster Co. (1447 Five Islands Road, 207-371-2990, fiveislandslobster.com), a quintessential Maine clam shack perched above a picturesque working harbor. It sells steamers, lobsters, fried clams, corn on the cob, crab cakes, burgers, and more, all of which you can eat at a picnic table on the pier while you soak up the views.